Tuesday, October 23, 2012

The land of flamingos, penguins, and blue-footed boobies!

Two days ago, we returned from one of the most incredible places on earth - The Galápagos! We spent seven days there snorkeling, hiking up volcanos, swimming with sea lions, and seeing all sorts of interesting wildlife. Compared to the Amazon where we barely had a free minute to shower, this excursion was much more relaxing.
Our half of the group stayed on a boat for the first 4 days, and then on the island Isabela for the last 3 days. On the boat, we usually snorkeled two times daily in various locations, and then did a sort of caminata (short walk) in the afternoon. The boat traveled during the night, so every morning we woke up to a different island and scenery!

Eden, the boat we stayed on

View of Santa Cruz, the first island we visited

First day of class


 Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and gave us a fantastic overview of the geology, natural history, and people of the Galápagos. One aspect that I really enjoy about excursions is that everything is in Spanish. Although we occasionally speak English amongst ourselves, nearly 100% of the information is taught to us in Spanish.

Red-footed boobies on the island Santa Cruz

Our guide Lenín showing us the skull of a dolphin

Snorkling!



Every day, we saw animals we had never seen before, including marine iguanas, giant tortoises, and flamingos.  But for me, the strangest part of the Galápagos is the lack of fear the animals have for humans. Because there have never been terrestrial predators, this instinct never developed in them. Even after seven days of observing, I couldn't get over how weird it was for a blue-footed boobie to walk within a foot of me or for a marine iguana to not move an inch as 13 people walked next to it.

A Nazca boobie on the island of Genovesa

You can get VERY close to sea lions

And swim with them

View from the top of Bartolome

 Flamingos!

We saw an incredible number of tortugas while in the Galápagos. Nearly every time we snorkeled, we saw between 3 and 20 of them. 


Swimming with the turtles

On the island Santa Cruz, we visited a giant tortoise reserve! There were 5,000 on the island, and in total, there are 50,000 on the Galápagos. 


During our time on Isabela, we had more free time to hang out on the beach, slackline, and spend time with our host families. My host dad's job is to dive for octopus, fish, and sea cucumbers, so we had fantastic seafood dinners!

Slacklining on the beach


It's hard to believe I get college credit for this :)


Friday, October 5, 2012

Anacondas, Tarantulas, and Bullet Ants, oh my!


The Amazon. Poison dart frogs, bullet ants, bushmasters, monkeys, night hikes, bird-watching, swimming in the Amazon, capybaras, frog-catching, tarantulas, pirana-fishing.

The eight days that we spent in the jungle were unlike any trip I’ve ever been on. Each day, I was amazed and awed by something new, whether it be learning about the caste system of army ants or seeing one of the most poisononous snakes on earth.

Our days could not have been busier – activites began at 5:30am and didn’t end until 10pm at night. Luckily we got one free hour after lunch to sleep or go swimming in the Tiputini River. Our schedules included a variety of activites such as night hikes, a few indoor lectures, time to work on our field projects, primate censusing, and more. The Tiputini Biological Reserve Station has a tower and a bridge that go up to the canopy level, and I particularly enjoyed being able to see the jungle from up high as the sun rose.

View from the top of the tower

 The tower

The bridge


Although we had one main guide who stayed with us throughout the week, the guides who work at the reserve instructed us as well. I was shocked to find out at the end of the week that most of them hadn’t received education beyond 6th or 7th grade, but they knew more about the jungle than I could imagine any Ph.D. knowing! For instance, in our bird species activity, we sat up in the tower for two and a half hours listening for different bird-calls. The guides would name the birds for us based on their calls so that we could make a series of 20-species list, and later be able to estimate the number of bird species on the reserve. The reserve has over 540 different species of birds! I was incredibly impressed that the guides could not only identify all of these birds, but also know their calls and behavior patterns. And this was just birds – they could do the same with frogs, plants, insects…

One of the guides showing us the species of ant that lives inside the branches of a tree. They taste like lemons!

One of my favorite activities that we did was a primate census. After a few lectures and hours of field experience identifying the 10 monkey species that live on the reserve, we all walked for 90 minutes along different trails, observing and identifying any groups of monkeys that we encountered.



The unplanned learning experiences in the jungle were just as good, if not better than the scheduled ones. On one afternoon, a friend and I went for a walk to the tower during our free hour, and in this time, ran into a colony of raiding army ants. The day before, we had heard an incredibly interesting lecture about army ants and the way their raids work, but seeing it all happen in real life added a completely new element to the information. 

Swarm of army ants


Other things we saw:

The fungus cordyceps: mind-controls its insect host and then kills it

Banana spider - very venomous

Tarantula

Poison dart frog

Queen leaf-cutter ant

Dwarf caiman

Termites fleeing from their nest


Pirana fishing!

A bushmaster

One of the two overly friendly monkeys in the town of Coca (on the way to Tiputini)






Sunday, September 23, 2012

Off to the Amazon!

These first two weeks of classes have flown by, and I can't believe we're already leaving tomorrow for our second excursion - 8 days in the Amazon! We'll be staying at Tiputini Biological Station which is in Yasuní National Park, and doing all sorts of activities such as tapir observing and monkey species counts. I'm pretty stoked.
I've adjusted to living with a new family, and am really enjoying being able to experience Ecuadorian culture as a family member. My host mother and I have bonded over cooking, and take turns sharing recipes with each other. So far, we've made chocolate chip banana bread, chocolate chip cookies and pesto (from my recipes) and llapingachos and viche from her recipes.

Cooking llapingachos together

 Llapingachos - potato/cheese pancakes covered in a peanut sauce, served with sausage, salad, and a fried egg. It's a classic Ecuadorian dish, and is delicious!

Classes have also been keeping me busy. We have classes from 8-1pm Mon-Wed, Fri, with day-long excursions on Thursdays and afternoon museum visits on Tuesdays after class. We visited an organic farm last Thursday, and went to the Páramo (an ecosystem high up in the mountains) this past Thursday. 
Last weekend, a few friends and I did a weekend trip to Baños, a nearby town famous for its extreme sports and hot springs. We spent our time mountain biking to waterfalls, going to the hot springs, white-water rafting, and wandering around the market trying new foods such as banana empanadas. 



Last night, my family and I went to a wedding in the southern part of Quito. It was quite different from any wedding I have ever been to, but my family also told me that it was unlike typical Ecuadorian weddings. There were two dances that took place in the middle of the ceremony, and anyone could stand right up next to the bride and groom during the ceremony to take pictures and watch. At the reception, we had dinner at 11:30pm. Although we were hungry for most of the reception, I enjoyed spending time with my family and learning how to dance merengue. 


My mom, grandma, host brothers, and older brother's girlfriend


At the reception

Unfortunately I'm in a rush with leaving tomorrow for the Amazon (or the Oriente, as they call it in Ecuador), so I'll have to leave more details about Ecuador for next time. 




Sunday, September 9, 2012

First two weeks in Ecuador!


I'm back from my 8-day excursion to the Intag cloud forest of Ecuador! But I’ll start from the beginning, when I arrived in Quito.

My flights from Cusco to Quito went smoothly, and I actually met 3 other students who are in my program while waiting in line to go through immigration. We were picked up by our program directors and then taken to a hostel in downtown Quito, where we would stay for the first week during orientation. This week was incredibly hectic, with tons of information being thrown at us and at the same time preparing for the first of our three ecological excursions of the semester. Additionally, the hurricane in Miami delayed the flights of nearly half the students, so those arriving on Monday and Tuesday missed parts of orientation.

On our first full day in Ecuador, we had a “drop-off” in the city where we all had to explore on our own for 3 hours. The bus system here is a little more confusing than in Cusco, but I managed to figure it out (sort of) after a while. We also got placed into our respective Spanish classes after having interviews. Each class only has between four and six students in it, which is great for individual attention. Later in the week, our Spanish classes went on a day-trip up to a reserve in the mountains, where we learned specific Spanish terminology relating to ecology.

My first meal in Quito - shrimp and rice at a Cevicheria (probably the best meal I've eaten here)

My Spanish class


Even after a week in Quito, I still feel like I don’t know the city very well (probably because our days were jam-packed with activities and lectures mostly in the hostel). However, I can definitely say that Cusco and Quito are two completely different cities. Quito is much larger and more modern, with tall buildings and a more complex public transportation system. I also feel like the Incan influence is stronger in Cusco, which can be seen through the clothing that people wear and the kinds of stores that line the streets.




On Saturday morning, our group left for the Intag cloud forest. After 6 hours in a bus, we arrived at La Florida, a farm owned by a couple from the US who moved to Ecuador about 30 years ago. For the next three and a half days, we had an incredibly busy schedule of classes/lectures/activities – all outside! Here’s one example of what a day was like in the cloud forest : 6-8am – bird watching. 8-9am – breakfast. 9-10am – lecture about the cloud forest. 10-12pm – nature hike. 12-1pm – lecture about mining. 1-2pm – lunch. 2-4pm – botany lessons. 4-6pm – setting up mist nets to catch birds. 6-7pm – nature drawing class. 7-8pm – dinner. 8-9pm – light trapping insects. Definitely a busy day, but a nice break from traditional college classes! All of the food we ate at La Florida was organic and vegetarian, and most of it came from the farm itself. I got to try a bunch of delicious foods, such as Peruvian ground cherries, naranjilla juice, and grilled burgers made from green plantains.

Peruvian ground cherries

Our 'classroom'

Learning how to record birds once we've caught them in the mist nets


Mist netting class

Botany class

Catching dragonflies for my field investigation project

The next three days were spent at rural home stays in a small village called Plaza Gutierrez, which is an hour and a half walk from La Florida. Each of us was assigned a different family. I lived with a woman named Fabiola, her eight-year-old daughter Kati, and Kati’s grandparents. All of the women in the community are weavers, and use a plant called cabuya to make hats, bags, belts, etc. They were taught how to weave 16 years ago by an American woman named Sandy who lives on La Florida. Sandy wanted to give the women (who didn’t have any professional skills) a trade so that they could better support their families and become more independent. Since then, the women have formed an organized group of weavers capable of making a living.
The three days living with the family was interesting and fun, but different from any experience I’ve had. The whole family sleeps in one room, and the kitchen consists of a small stove. They have a variety of farm animals including pigs, chickens, cows, cats, a dog, and a horse. The chickens, cats, and dog routinely came into the kitchen and would jump/fly onto the table while we were eating. My host sister went to school in the mornings, and while she was away, Fabiola and I would do dishes, cook meals, and weave. She taught me how to make a bag out of cabuya, which was really fun. On one of the afternoons, Kati and I went for a horseback ride up the mountain and picked blackberries together. Another afternoon, Fabiola and I met up with another family to cut plantains, yucca, and lemons with a machete from a farm. It was really nice to get a glimpse of what this lifestyle is like through experiencing it for a few days.

My host grandmother spinning cabuya

My host sister and her friends (she's in the orange)


Their yard


Trying to ride a llama....

Crocheting my bag

My host mom and the bag she helped me make

After the home stay (and a horseback ride back to the farm), our group of students participated in a “minga”, which is a Quechuan word for an event where everyone in a community works together on something, such as a barn raising. Whenever we have an excursion somewhere, we always work for a day doing something the community needs done to give back to the locals. Near La Florida, we helped with a bridge construction by moving rocks out of a river to use on the bridge. We also did some work in a botanical garden.
The next day, we left early in the morning to head back to Quito. We arrived in the afternoon, and the rest of the day was spent showering (much needed after 8 days), eating dinner, and hanging out. The following day, we met our semi-permanent host families, with whom we will be living for the next two months! This morning, my host mom and one of my host brothers picked me up from the hostel. I have two parents and two brothers (Martin and Daniel), aged 18 and 22. They all seem very nice, and I have been warmly welcomed into their home as part of their family. They live a 10-minute walk from the building where I have my classes every day, which I am very excited about. Almost all of the other students live 45 minutes to an hour by bus or trolley from class.

So far, Quito has been a blast, and I’m definitely looking forward to the rest of the semester!