We woke
up at 3am on Tuesday to meet our group for the 2.5 hour bus ride to Mollepata, where we would
begin the hike. After a quick breakfast, our group of 16 (two couples from
London, one couple from Paris, one Canadian, four Brazillians, three girls from
Holland, Paris, and Denmark, and Sarah and I) began the 14 mile hike uphill to
our first camp. We had a delicious lunch prepared for us after a few hours of
hiking, and then continued up into the mountains. The altitude made the hiking
fairly exhausting, and Sarah and I were
more than happy when we reached the camp. At an altitude of 3900m (12,800
ft), this camp would be the highest we would have to sleep at, and also the
coldest. Once everyone arrived at camp, we had ´happy hour´, where the cooks
served us popcorn, cookies, and coca tea. Chewing coca leaves and drinking coca
tea during the trek really helped combat the effects of the altitude. After a
short nap, we ate a dinner of chicken, rice, and pasta, and then went to bed.
We
awoke at 5am the next morning, drank coca tea in our tents, and then prepared for
the hardest day of trekking: 4 hours of hiking uphill to an altitude of 4600m
(15,100 ft) followed by 6 more hours of hiking downhill into the jungle. The
night before, we were given the option of paying to ride a horse for the uphill
section, and 6 of our group members chose to do so. Sarah had unfortunately
developed blisters the day before and woke up with a sore throat, so she also
decided to ride a horse to the top. The other 9 group members and I began
hiking in the freezing cold mountain air up switchbacks to the top of Salkantay
Pass. The hiking wasn´t too difficult until the last half hour to the top,
where the lack of oxygen forced me to frequently pause for air. We stopped on
top for pictures and a short ceremony with coca leaves, and then began the
steep hike down into the jungle. Camping that night was much more comfortable
as the jungle kept us warmer than the mountains. We also had a campfire, and
enjoyed tea and beer before going to bed.
The
third day´s hiking was much shorter than the previous days, only 5.5 hours, but
we still had to wake up early in order to reach Santa Maria by 12:30pm so that
the 4 day trekkers could catch two buses and a train to Aguas Calientes. The
cooks went all out for lunch that afternoon, and we ate a delicious meal of
quinoa and chicken, maccaroni salad, lentil stew, and various other dishes. After a few hours of driving and riding in
trains, the other 4 day trekkers and I reached Aguas Calientes, the town below
Machu Picchu. Here, we were able to take hot showers in our hostels and sleep
in beds – wonderful! Our guide took us out to dinner, and then we went to bed
shortly after.
On the
last day, we awoke at 3:30am (this was starting to get pretty old) in order to
be at the ´trailhead´to Machu Picchu by 5am. The hike from Aguas Calientes was
supposed to take around an hour and fifteen minutes, but Machu Picchu would
open at 6am so we wanted to get there earlier. As soon as the gate opened, our
group began climbing the 1008 steps up to the top – in the pitch black. 40
minutes later, Sarah and I reached the entrance to Machu Picchu, and got to be
the 2nd and 3rd people to enter! We were able to watch as the sun came over the
mountains, illuminating Machu Picchu in a warm glow. The view was absolutely
fantastic, and I´ve never seen anything like it before. I felt as if I were in
a movie or a fantasy world; I couldn´t believe a place like this actually
existed in real life. Our trekking guide, Jorge, gave us a 2 hour tour of the
ruins before leaving us on our own for the rest of the day. Sarah and I had
tickets to hike up Huayna Picchu, the mountain next to Machu Picchu, and so we
spent a few hours up there. Huayna Picchu was just as amazing as Machu Picchu,
and I would HIGHLY recommend to anyone traveling to Machu Picchu to pay the
extra $5 for the beautiful views.
After
hiking down (not so much fun after 4 tiring days of hiking), Sarah and I met up
with our group and went to the hot springs in town. We then all went out to
dinner, and I probably had one of the best Peruvian meals so far at this
restaurante. I also got to taste alpaca, which is delicious! Later that
evening, we caught the 9:30pm bus to Ollantaytambo, and then a bus the rest of
the way back to Cusco. We arrived at our apartment around 2:30am, exhausted
after being up for nearly 24 hours straight.
Now
that I´ve been back in Cusco for a few days, things are back to normal (except
the amount of laundry I need to do). We did a medical campaign yesterday that
went well, and everyone´s hard at work either with the pharmacy or in the
kindergarden. Today I´m going to observe a second pulmonary cystectomy surgery at
the clinic, and later this week we´re having a party to fundraise for the
kindergarden. Unfortunately, a lot of volunteers are leaving soon, including my
friend Sarah. I´ll miss her a lot, and it will be hard to say goodbye to the
people I´ve been living and working with for the last month and a half.
Oh My Gosh!! I have got to see that before I die! Your pix are the next best thing to being there. I like the idea of getting there at sunrise. You worked really hard for that but it sounds worth it. Do they supply the cocoa leaves? Karen from Utah
ReplyDeleteYes, hiking up in the morning is definitely worth it! I also highly recommend doing a trek as well if you get the chance to come see Machu Picchu. They supplied the coca tea, and we were given coca leaves during breakfast, but during the day you can buy the leaves from local vendors along the trek. An entire bag of them costs 1 sole, or 35 cents US, and would last you the whole trip. Coca leaves are very common here, and so their products (coca taffy, carmels, etc) are fairly cheap.
ReplyDelete