Wednesday, July 25, 2012


This past week, our apartment cooked three traditional Peruvian meals together in celebration of Peru’s independence day! Rosa and Sonya came over to instruct us and help with the preparation. The first night, we cooked Lomo Saltado, which is strips of beef cooked with onions, tomatoes, peppers, and paprika served with rice over French fries. I’ve had it twice so far in Peru, and it’s probably one of my favorite meals here. 



The second night, we cooked Papas a la Huancaína, which consists of boiled potatoes, eggs, and tallarin pasta covered in a sauce made from aji peppers, milk, cheese and crackers. This is also one of my favorite meals, and today I successfully made Huancaína sauce on my own! 


We cooked Bistec con Salsa de Espinaca the third night, or beef covered in a sauce made from spinach served with French fries.  


Sunday’s medical campaign went extremely well! We helped over 110 patients throughout the morning in our local neighborhood of El Patron de San Sebastian. It was our last campaign as a whole group, since Sarah left on Monday and Mark left the following day.



Now that Mark and Sarah have left, Michael and I are the only volunteers left working for the pharmacy. Since he is in the middle of secondary applications to medical school, I’m on my own for the next week or so. One of the doctors that we hire for our medical campaigns, Dr. Rafael, offered to let me help in his clinic, so I’ve been going to the village of Occopata outside of Cusco for the past two days. This village is much poorer than Cusco (as the surrounding villages usually are) and the people there speak Quechua as their primary language. They understand Spanish, but generally reply in Quechua to the doctors and nurses in the clinic.

The town of Occopata



On Tuesday, one of the nurses asked me to help her administer vaccinations to some of the kids at the local school. They receive their vaccinations for free during recess, and after watching the nurse do the first immunization, she let me do most of the rest! 



Dr. Rafael is in the green on the left


Today I went to Occopata again, and was completely shocked by what I saw. Soon after I arrived, Dr. Rafael called me into the back to assist with some patients. I encountered two young children, brother and sister, with warts all over their hands. Worse, they had been scratching the warts for the past few weeks, creating infectious sores filled with pus. The 9-yr-old girl’s hands were worse than her brother’s, and her skin was bloody and raw in most places. The doctor told me to scrub her hands using gauze and soap and water, and also to remove all infected pustules by using a needle or my hands (using gloves of course).  She bravely stood there as I cleaned her hands, but then began to cry as the pain got worse and worse. Judging by the state of her hands, I can only imagine the pain must have been excruciating, especially for such a young girl. 

The hand of the girl after I finished cleaning it (it was much worse before)



The cleaning took over half an hour, and as I scrubbed, her mother came into the room occasionally to watch.  At first I was confused by the mother’s behavior, but the confusion soon turned to anger. The girl’s mother offered absolutely no emotional support to her daughter as she underwent this painful process of having her wounds scrubbed, sterilized, treated with antibiotics, and finally bandaged. No hugs or kind words came from this woman. She simply stood there watching, smiling at times, completely ignorant of the fact that her poor choice in waiting weeks to bring her children to the doctor had resulted in much more severe cases. Even when the doctor and nurse told her repeatedly that she should have brought them sooner, she just nodded as if it wasn’t a big deal, and continued standing there without saying a word.
The brother’s hands were in slightly better condition, but still needed the same treatment. At this point, the clinic got flooded with patients, and so I was left alone to continue with the cleaning and sterilization.

After only two days of observing and assisting, I am already able to draw some conclusions about the problems in Occopata. Most of the children there suffer from malnutrition, and when the obstetrician plots their height and weight on the percentile chart, almost every single one of them falls in the red, or “danger” zone. Each mother is then told the same thing, how their children are losing weight and barely increasing in height at ages when they should be growing. Healthy diets are discussed, the mother’s head gives a slight nod, and I can see that the information is forgotten or dismissed as rapidly as it is given. After a few such visits, I begin asking the obstetrician questions. Why do these mothers seem so complacent about the health of their children, and refuse to take responsibility? Is it the poverty that is stopping them from buying nutritious food, or are other factors at play? She tells me that the mother’s lack of education is one of the main reasons stopping these kids from receiving the nutrition that they need. For instance, the families might own chickens, but the mothers choose to sell the eggs for money and buy their children nutrient-poor rice or potatoes instead of feeding protein-filled eggs to their offspring. It’s not as much a matter of money as knowledge as to which foods should be consumed, and in what combination. The lack of desire to become educated about nutrition is also a huge problem, since the clinicians can only repeat the information so many times to unwilling ears.
These issues really bother me, and I find it hard to understand where the mothers are coming from. I realize that they lack education, but I can’t wrap my head around why someone wouldn’t do everything in their power to improve the lives of their children they love.  I find myself silently fuming, wishing I could somehow convince a mother to bring her kids to the doctor before easily treatable warts turn into a bloody infectious mess, or a woman of 33 to just consider taking birth control to avoid having six children, since she can’t even care for the five she already has. I’ve realized that it’s often easy to assume problems can be solved by providing things such as money, information, or supplies, but some problems remain much more difficult to resolve when they involve the mindset or attitude of a people. 

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Trek to Machu Piccu!

Last week´s trek to Machu Picchu was one of the best weeks spent in Peru so far. The trek was difficult at times, but overall incredibly fun and a great vacation. Sarah and I actually ended up doing the 4 day Salkantay trek instead of the 5 day, because I had gotten sick (yet again) the Friday before we were supposed to leave and wanted to have an extra day to recover.
                We woke up at 3am on Tuesday to meet our group for the 2.5 hour bus ride to Mollepata, where we would begin the hike. After a quick breakfast, our group of 16 (two couples from London, one couple from Paris, one Canadian, four Brazillians, three girls from Holland, Paris, and Denmark, and Sarah and I) began the 14 mile hike uphill to our first camp. We had a delicious lunch prepared for us after a few hours of hiking, and then continued up into the mountains. The altitude made the hiking fairly exhausting, and Sarah and I were  more than happy when we reached the camp. At an altitude of 3900m (12,800 ft), this camp would be the highest we would have to sleep at, and also the coldest. Once everyone arrived at camp, we had ´happy hour´, where the cooks served us popcorn, cookies, and coca tea. Chewing coca leaves and drinking coca tea during the trek really helped combat the effects of the altitude. After a short nap, we ate a dinner of chicken, rice, and pasta, and then went to bed. 




                We awoke at 5am the next morning, drank coca tea in our tents, and then prepared for the hardest day of trekking: 4 hours of hiking uphill to an altitude of 4600m (15,100 ft) followed by 6 more hours of hiking downhill into the jungle. The night before, we were given the option of paying to ride a horse for the uphill section, and 6 of our group members chose to do so. Sarah had unfortunately developed blisters the day before and woke up with a sore throat, so she also decided to ride a horse to the top. The other 9 group members and I began hiking in the freezing cold mountain air up switchbacks to the top of Salkantay Pass. The hiking wasn´t too difficult until the last half hour to the top, where the lack of oxygen forced me to frequently pause for air. We stopped on top for pictures and a short ceremony with coca leaves, and then began the steep hike down into the jungle. Camping that night was much more comfortable as the jungle kept us warmer than the mountains. We also had a campfire, and enjoyed tea and beer before going to bed.







                The third day´s hiking was much shorter than the previous days, only 5.5 hours, but we still had to wake up early in order to reach Santa Maria by 12:30pm so that the 4 day trekkers could catch two buses and a train to Aguas Calientes. The cooks went all out for lunch that afternoon, and we ate a delicious meal of quinoa and chicken, maccaroni salad, lentil stew, and various other dishes.  After a few hours of driving and riding in trains, the other 4 day trekkers and I reached Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu. Here, we were able to take hot showers in our hostels and sleep in beds – wonderful! Our guide took us out to dinner, and then we went to bed shortly after.






                On the last day, we awoke at 3:30am (this was starting to get pretty old) in order to be at the ´trailhead´to Machu Picchu by 5am. The hike from Aguas Calientes was supposed to take around an hour and fifteen minutes, but Machu Picchu would open at 6am so we wanted to get there earlier. As soon as the gate opened, our group began climbing the 1008 steps up to the top – in the pitch black. 40 minutes later, Sarah and I reached the entrance to Machu Picchu, and got to be the 2nd and 3rd people to enter! We were able to watch as the sun came over the mountains, illuminating Machu Picchu in a warm glow. The view was absolutely fantastic, and I´ve never seen anything like it before. I felt as if I were in a movie or a fantasy world; I couldn´t believe a place like this actually existed in real life. Our trekking guide, Jorge, gave us a 2 hour tour of the ruins before leaving us on our own for the rest of the day. Sarah and I had tickets to hike up Huayna Picchu, the mountain next to Machu Picchu, and so we spent a few hours up there. Huayna Picchu was just as amazing as Machu Picchu, and I would HIGHLY recommend to anyone traveling to Machu Picchu to pay the extra $5 for the beautiful views. 






 
                After hiking down (not so much fun after 4 tiring days of hiking), Sarah and I met up with our group and went to the hot springs in town. We then all went out to dinner, and I probably had one of the best Peruvian meals so far at this restaurante. I also got to taste alpaca, which is delicious! Later that evening, we caught the 9:30pm bus to Ollantaytambo, and then a bus the rest of the way back to Cusco. We arrived at our apartment around 2:30am, exhausted after being up for nearly 24 hours straight.
                Now that I´ve been back in Cusco for a few days, things are back to normal (except the amount of laundry I need to do). We did a medical campaign yesterday that went well, and everyone´s hard at work either with the pharmacy or in the kindergarden. Today I´m going to observe a second pulmonary cystectomy surgery at the clinic, and later this week we´re having a party to fundraise for the kindergarden. Unfortunately, a lot of volunteers are leaving soon, including my friend Sarah. I´ll miss her a lot, and it will be hard to say goodbye to the people I´ve been living and working with for the last month and a half.  

Wednesday, July 4, 2012


Almost everyone who goes to Central/South America for an extended period of time gets sick at some point, and unfortunately I am no exception. I must have eaten something contaminated on Tuesday, because I woke up on Wednesday throwing up and feeling horribly nauseas. I spent the next two days bedridden with fever and chills, unable to do anything except sleep. After taking antibiotics, I began feeling better, but traveling to Puno as originally anticipated was out of the question.
Kwinten (one of the other volunteers) and I had spent all of Tuesday afternoon advertising for our clothing drive to local businesses, and the collection on Thursday was very successful. The other volunteers packed up the clothes to bring to a town in the Puno area, and left early Friday morning.


 Sarah and I had the apartment to ourselves for the weekend, and I was able to make a full recovery from my prior illness.  We had a lovely time wandering for hours around the center, stopping in a bakery to eat ‘aji de pollo’ empanadas and maricuya (passionfruit) bread, both of which are mouth-wateringly delicious!



We also decided to make pesto for ourselves that evening, so I went to a nearby market to buy a large quantity of basil. When I told the storeowner how much I wanted, he stared at me in disbelief, trying to convince me that I would only need a very small amount for any kind of dinner I was attempting to cook. I explained that I was making pesto, but I don’t think he knew what that was (or maybe I was saying the wrong word in Spanish). Despite the shaking heads and weird looks I received for my basil purchase, our pesto turned out quite well!
I took part in my second medical campaign on Sunday at Alto Cusco. Like the name implies, this area is high above the city of Cusco. In order to reach it, one must take a taxi collectivo (which is the equivalent of a taxi stuffed with around 15 people in it) at frightening speeds up a sharp, winding road filled with large divets. I have now ridden up and down this road two times, and hope never to again. The campaign was successful, with over 65 patients seen by the doctor. I saw a variety of different cases, including class 4 varicose veins, multiple hernias, and children with parasites.




Going out to lunch with the doctor after the campaign - we ate a pizza and a variety of meats, including cow's tongue, hot dogs, pork, and sheep's stomach.



Yesterday was a fantastic day. In addition to doing oral hygiene campaigns, I practiced a traditional Peruvian dance with 3-year-olds from the Jardin. The school is performing these dances on Thursday for Teacher’s day. After that, my friend Sarah and I booked our Machu Picchu trek for next week! We’re doing the Salkantay Trek, which is a 5 day hike to Machu Picchu on a trail less traveled than the Inca trail. We then walked over to the medical clinic, where we observed the last part of a cystectomy surgery (removal of a cyst on the lung). The woman had a parasite that created large cysts on each of her lungs, and so she has to have two separate surgeries to remove each of them. This was the first time I’ve seen an inner cavity surgery, and it was fascinating to see parts such as the lungs, heart, and pulmonary artery in a live human being. In two weeks, I will definitely be going back so I can see the entire surgery on the other lung. After leaving the clinic, Sarah and I went to a Peruvian cooking class that we attend every Tuesday. We learned how to make Tallarin Verde con Ocopa, which is spaghetti and a kind of pesto sauce served with potatoes covered in a sauce made from peanuts, bread, milk, peppers, cheese, and onions. In addition to eating an incredible traditional dish, I learned a lot from the Peruvian woman who was helping with the cooking. One interesting tidbit is about sauces - apparently bread is blended in frequently to thicken up the sauce, similar to how we typically use flour in our sauces for the same purpose.


Since I wasn’t able to post pictures from Inti Raymi last week, here are some from the celebration:

Parades throughout the streets of downtown Cusco


Everyone walking up to the ruins of Saqsaywaman for the festival



One of the two hillsides covered in spectators (I'm on the hill opposite this)



Lots of formation dancing


The llama sacrifice! The ceremonial leaders then drank its blood afterwards.